Sharavathi valley Trek - Monsoon Bliss (Day 3)

Continued from here - Sharavathi valley Trek - Monsoon Bliss ( Day 2)

Day 3 Adventure :

Brief plan:  Second day we had covered a total distance of 20 km  . Our last destination was Gersoppa.So third day we must cover a distance of 27 km in order to reach Gersoppa. To reach Gersoppa one must cross the Sharavathi river.

We planned to leave Ram naik's house early morning around 7 am.So that we can reach Kanoor Kote early .Kanoor Kote (Kanoor Fort) is 12 km from Kanoor village. So it would take around 3-4 hrs to the fort.Mean while our dinner was ready by 9:30 pm. Had our dinner and slept early.Some of them opted to watch IND vs WI match (tri series).   

Early morning woke up at 7am. Our plan got spoiled because it was already 7 am. And morning duties are yet to be finished.Finally we decided not to have break fast, instead we packed our break fast.By doing so we can atleast save half an hr.Meanwhile I picked up my camera and went on capturing the beauty of Malnad(western Ghat).

Ram Naik's House- Typical Malnad House





One and Only Primary school of the village.



Kanoor Bus stop

After finishing all our morning duties we started our 3rd day venture by 8:30 am. Packed our breakfast and marched towards Kanoor Kote.From Kanoor village Fort is another 12km. Path is very clear and not much steep. But one must pass through dense forest.It was really slippery due to the heavy rains in the vicinity. It was a nice weather in the morning which made our trek bit easy.So we covered as much distance as possible. Soon it started raining when we entered forest .After crossing Dense forest we reached jeep track.It was already 10:30 am and we stopped for our breakfast at nearby house.They provided us forest Mangoes ,Bananas etc .. and of course TEA   . Still we need to move some 6km to reach the Fort.

Path to enlightenment 

At the view point

Hard task ahead





Refreshing falls en-route



Finally on Jeep track



Beauty of Western ghats 

About the Kanoor Fort and Dynasty :

Small town on the northern banks of Sharavati River in North Kanara district of Karnataka State, Gersoppa was the capital of Salva kings. The Sharavathi region was ruled by Salva dynasty for more than two centuries. Earlier Gersoppa was known as Nagar Bastikeri. A big center of trade and commerce, the city was famous for beautiful temples, basadis and as a place of literary and cultural activities. Honna was the founder of Saluva dynasty and Honnavar was named after him. Honnavar was a big harbor of interior trade and Bhatkal was a big international trade seaport. Quality horses and weaponry were imported from West and landed at Bhatkal. Pepper and other spices were exported by shiploads to Middle East and European countries through Bhatkal port. Many wars were fought for the control of Honavar and Bhatkal ports by Vijaynagar, Adilshah and Keladi kings. They tried to keep Salva kings in good humour and Salvas made their presence felt throughout. They were at times in charge of Tuluva (South Kanara) country as well.

Kanoor Fort was built by Queen Chennabhairadevi ( 1560 - 1606 AD ), who belonged to the Tuluva-Salva clan under the tutelage of Vijaynagar kings. Rani Chennabhairavdevi was also known as the Pepper Queen. Her reign was in conformity with the doctrine of succession “ Aliyasantana “ or Matriarchal , a tradition followed in coastal belt of konkan and Kerala. Her reign was the longest in the history of female domination in the annals of Indian history, from 1552 – 1606. The strong hold of her territory was centered around North and South canara districts and south Goa. The main harbours were Malpe, Baindoor, Mirjan, Honnavar, Ankola and Karwar.

After the battle of Talikota in 1565, the Pepper queen was constantly fighting battle for survival. During this period she shifted her base from Mirjan Fort to Kanoor Fort, an isle in the middle of river Sharavathi. Being a jain she was responsible for construction of many basadis in and around barkur and moodbidri area.

The pepper queen protected her territory fiercely which prompted the Portguese recorded in 1591 " We must deal with her with utmost caution and diplomacy, We must be polite,courteous and win her trust......(obviously to get favour in trading the spices from her territory ) Gerosappa was the capital of her territory. Spices grew abundantly in the rain fed virgin forest land of North Karnataka and Goa. Spices from her territory was mainly traded from three harbour towns Bhatkal, Honnavar and Mirjan. They were exported to Arabian countries, in exchange of horses, perfumes, silk, precious stones and dry fruits. 

Though the Vijayanagara empire was on the decline, the queen called herself a subordinate (mahamandaleshwara) of Vijayanagar rulers. She was always busy checking the advances of Portuguese who were notorious for their unfair practices and treachery in Indian context. At the same time she had to be ever alert with the rulers of the adjoining Keladi kingdom and Bilgi chiefs, the latter being another principality near by. They always tried to grab the harbors and trade. She had sought help of Adilshah of Bijapur a strong king of Deccan while crushing the Portuguese. The help did not reach on time, but she was successful. The Portuguese were humbled.

But the efforts of Keladi Nayaka and Bilgi chiefs continued to pull her down. Finally a marital tie brought the two rulers together, literally joining hands! They jointly attacked Gersoppa, completely defeating the brave queen. Gersoppa thus became part of Keladi kingdom. The ageing queen was taken a prisoner and died in a prison in Keladi.

Thus ended the rule of a brave, kind, tolerant and benevolent queen who perhaps had the longest reign as a woman ruler in Indian history

- Courtesy of History of India and Mirjan Fort

After finishing our breakfast we left the house by 12 noon and still 6 km to go. Doctor Mane/House is the base of the Kanoor fort.Real trek to Kanoor fort starts from Doctor Mane.Till Doctor Mane there is a clear jeep track. From Doctor mane trail passes through the dense forest.From Doctor mane Kanoor fort is 2 km. We witnessed several uprooted trees on the trail and managed to cross them with great effort.Finally it was 2 pm when we reached Kanoor Fort. It was raining heavily. Thus we could not get sufficient time to capture the beauty of the fort.Kanoor fort is completely abandoned and surrounded by thick forest .

Back entrance of the fort

Forest Dynasty

Main entrance to the fort

Secret tunnel in the fort

Thick fog

Some info about the fort 

After having some adventure at Kanoor fort we headed towards Gersoppa ,the end point of our endurance trek.It was around 3pm when we started our descent towards Gersoppa.From Kanoor fort Gersoppa is around 15km.There is a village called Khandodi at a distance of 8km from Kanoor fort .We decided to have our lunch at Khandodi village.As it was already 3pm,we marched quickly so that we can reach Gersoppa early.We need to cross Sharavathi river at the end.So its better to reach Sharavathi river bank early in the evening.

We reached Khandodi by 4:30 pm.Our guide quickly prepared Maggi and served within 10 min  .We had maggi and as usual Black tea was ready by that time. Thanks to owner of the house and western ghat ppl.

Now the great challenge was waiting for us   . .it was none other than stream . . . But this time it was a branch of sharavathi river.Though there is a man made bridge,it was scary    .Its too small and slippery. Probably the width of the wooden piece is around 1 ft only.We can divide the bridge into 2 parts. One part is from ground to branch of the tree .And other from tree branch to ground .Somehow my friend managed to carry the camera and captured complete adventure . .   

Pics are captured from HD video.
Looks adventurous . .Isn't it . .   

After crossing the dangerous bridge we took jeep track which leads to Gersoppa also called as Nagara Bastikere.At Nagara Bastikere we need to cross Sharavathi river in order to reach sagara from Gersoppa.We had pleasant walk in the jeep track and we can feel the humidity change as we were nearing coastal region.Finally reached Sharavathi river by 6:30 pm and crossed the river with the help of Motor boat.Crossing the river was our final adventure task. Enjoyed thoroughly and reached the other side of the river within 5 minutes.It was a wonderful moment when we made our final destination. And thats curtains down to out 3 days adventure saga.With tons of memories to share we headed towards Gersoppa cross where we can get bus to Sagara.So we totally covered a distance of 65 km in three days. This trail consists mixed terrains and one would enjoy thoroughly.We witnessed steep climb,overflowing streams,steep descent,flat jeep track,Dense forest,Paddy fields,grassland,refreshing water falls,good hospitality by the western ghat ppl etc . .etc. .

Final stretch 





Look at the size of the uprooted tree . .







Final destination : Sharavathi River

Guide details :

The Sharavathy Nature Adventurers Trust (R).(The Nature Adventurers)

Mahesh.M.R.    President
The Sharavathi Nature Adventurers Trust(R)
C/o Hotel Pavitra, Municipal Complex, Main Bus Stop,
Sagar – 577 401,Shimoga District.Karnataka.

Phone: 88842 66438
e-Mail ID : trekmahesh@yahoo.co.in

Last word which I wish to share is "We may travel so many miles in our life but only few miles remains with us forever" .

Full album on Picassa